
Deck Replacement
Tearing out a deck that has reached the end of its life and rebuilding on sound footings.
What this involves →Diagnosing what has actually gone wrong — usually underneath, usually at the ledger or the post bases — and fixing it before it turns into a full replacement.
No obligation. Every estimate starts with a walkthrough of the site and a straight conversation about what the ground, the span and the budget will allow.

What this involves
The visible problems are rarely the important ones. Split boards, grey timber and a wobbly handrail are what prompts the call, but they are symptoms of age and weather. The problems that decide whether your deck is safe are all in the frame, and the frame is under your feet.
The most serious is the ledger — the board bolted to the house that carries a large share of the deck’s load. If it was fastened with nails instead of structural bolts, or if the flashing was skipped or wrongly lapped, water tracks behind it and rots the house’s rim joist. That damage is invisible until it is severe, and ledger failure is the classic cause of decks collapsing under a crowd. It is the first thing we look at, every time.
Second is where posts meet concrete. A post set directly on a footing wicks water into its end grain and rots from the bottom up, and the metal base connector corrodes in the same spot. On decks built more than fifteen years ago there is also a fastener chemistry problem: the copper-based preservatives that replaced older treatments are corrosive to ordinary galvanised hardware, so hangers and bolts on some decks are quietly rusting out.
Third is bounce. A deck that moves underfoot is telling you that joists are over-spanned, blocking is missing, or a footing has settled. It is not always dangerous, but it is always information.

What is needed varies. The inspection does not.
Ledger and flashing, bolt pattern, joist hangers and their fasteners, beam bearing, post bases, footing movement and guardrail attachment. We report what we find, including the parts that are fine.
Re-bolting or replacing a ledger and correcting its flashing, replacing rotted joists and rim boards, adding beams or footings to cure over-spanning, and replacing corroded hangers and connectors.
Replacing split, cupped or soft boards, rebuilding stairs with even risers, re-fixing or replacing guardrail posts, and re-securing loose infill.
Why it pays off
This is the checklist we work through on every deck before quoting a repair. Most of it takes minutes and it changes the whole conversation.
How it runs
The diagnosis is the job. The rest is carpentry.
Send pictures of the underside, the ledger connection and anything that looks wrong. It often tells us whether this is a morning or a fortnight.
We get under the deck with a probe and a torch and work the checklist. You get told what is sound as well as what is not.
An honest verdict. If the sensible answer is replacement, we say so, and explain what we saw that led there.
What gets fixed, what gets replaced, what we are deliberately leaving alone, and what it costs.
Structure first, always. Boards and railings go back after the frame is right, not before.
A walk round showing you what changed, and what to keep an eye on over the next few years.
Bounce is worth investigating now rather than next summer. Send photos of the underside and the ledger and we will tell you what you are probably looking at.
The repair calculator prices the specific failures you can see and then shows the total as a percentage of a comparable new deck — which is the number that actually settles the repair-or-replace question.
Questions
The honest answer is that you often cannot tell from on top. The warning signs worth acting on are: movement or sway when several people are on it, a guardrail that shifts when you lean, visible rust streaks around joist hangers, and any softness in the timber where the deck meets the house — press a screwdriver into it, and if it sinks easily the wood is compromised.
If the deck moves away from the house at all, stop using it and get it looked at. That is ledger separation and it does not get better.
Usually, but not always, and the crossover comes sooner than people expect. Replacing a handful of boards, resetting rails and rebuilding stairs is straightforwardly cheaper. Once you are cutting out and replacing joists, the labour of working around an existing structure starts to exceed the cost of building new.
Our rough rule: if more than about a third of the framing needs work, price the replacement as well before deciding.
We can, if the frame is genuinely sound — and we will tell you honestly whether it is. What we will not do is lay new decking over a frame we believe is failing, because it hides the problem, it wastes your money, and the boards have to come up again to fix it properly.
Usually not. Greying is UV bleaching of the surface fibres, and at 4,400 feet it happens faster than most people expect. Splintering is the surface breaking down as those fibres degrade. Both are cosmetic in origin.
The catch is that a surface that rough is also holding water in checks and cracks, which does eventually reach the fastener holes and the timber below. Sanding and refinishing solves it on wood that is otherwise sound; on boards that have gone soft, replacement is the answer.
Like-for-like maintenance generally does not; structural alteration generally does. Replacing decking boards is usually maintenance. Replacing joists, changing the framing layout, adding to the deck or altering the ledger connection moves towards permitted work.
The line varies by jurisdiction and it is worth a phone call rather than an assumption. If your project is near it, we will raise it before starting.
Yes — that is most of this work. We do not need to know who built it or apportion blame. We just need to see what is there, which is why the inspection comes before the quote rather than after.
Related work
Most projects touch more than one of these.

Tearing out a deck that has reached the end of its life and rebuilding on sound footings.
What this involves →
Capped composite and PVC boards for owners who would rather not re-stain every other summer.
What this involves →
Cedar, redwood and pressure-treated pine built to move with Nevada temperature swings.
What this involves →Where we work
The same job costs and behaves differently in Verdi than it does in Fernley. Each area page explains why.
Not on the list? Ask anyway — the boundary is fuzzy at the edges.
Next step
Send photos of the underside and the point where the deck meets the house. That is where the answer usually is.
No obligation. Every estimate starts with a walkthrough of the site and a straight conversation about what the ground, the span and the budget will allow.
Tell us about your deck project below and we will follow up to set up a free estimate.